Download PDF Complete Book of Framing: An Illustrated Guide for Residential Construction
Download PDF Complete Book of Framing: An Illustrated Guide for Residential Construction
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Complete Book of Framing: An Illustrated Guide for Residential Construction
Download PDF Complete Book of Framing: An Illustrated Guide for Residential Construction
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Amazon.com Review
Framing Tips for Every Task Material Movement for Walls Locate wall framing so that once the wall is built, it can be raised into position as close to where it finally goes as possible. Spread the headers, trimmers, cripples, and sills as close to their final position as possible. Eight is an average number of 2 × 4 studs to carry. You can use your leg to stabilize the studs you are spreading. Stabilize them with one arm and one leg to free up your other arm so that you can spread them one at a time. This way you won’t have to set them down, then pick them back up to spread them. (See photo.) Select a straight plate for the top and double plates, and position any crown in the double plate in the opposite direction of the top plate crown. This will help straighten out the wall. Nailing Walls Nail the headers to the studs first. Make sure that they are flush on top and on the ends of the headers. Nail the trimmers to the studs. Make sure that they are up tight against the bottom of the header and flush with the sides of the stud. Nail the studs and cripples to the plates. Nail sills to the cripples and the trimmers. Make sure that all the connections are tight and flush. Squaring Walls Align the bottom plate so that when it is raised, it will be as close to the final position as possible. Attach the bottom plate to the floor along the inside chalk line for the wall. Toenail through the bottom plate into the floor so that the sheathing won’t cover the nails. If the wall is in position, it can be nailed on the inside, and the nails can be pulled out after the wall is raised. Use your tape measure to check the diagonal lengths of the wall. Move the top part of the wall until the diagonal lengths are equal. Example: If the diagonal measurements are different by one inch, then move the long measure toward the short measure by one half inch diagonal measure. Make sure the measurements are exact. Once the diagonals are the same, check by measuring the other diagonal. Temporarily nail the top of the wall so that it will not move while you are sheathing it. Make sure you nail so that your nails won’t be covered by the sheathing.
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From the Back Cover
The updated, easy-to-use reference for rough carpentry and framing Complete Book of Framing, Second Edition is an updated, easy-to-use guide to rough carpentry and framing written by an expert with more than thirty years of framing experience. This book guides the reader through each step of framing floors, walls, roofs, door and window openings, and stairs. Hundreds of color photographs and illustrations help the reader understand basic and advanced framing methods. This Second Edition is updated to match the framing techniques of the 2009 International Building Code and introduces the concept of "green framing" with regard to material use and handling. Other new content includes: Instructions on dealing with the new corrosive-causing methods that began to be used in 2004 for pressure-treated wood Coverage of the time- and energy-saving benefits of positive placement nail guns—the industry standard for fastening light gauge hardware A chart displaying glue-laminated beam weight, used for organizing the installation of glue-laminated beams Starting with the basics, this book begins with types of lumber, nails, and what tools are needed, followed by detailed, fully illustrated steps for framing each building element—from planning and layout through specific nailing patterns. Framer-friendly tips throughout the book show how to get a task done right—and more easily.
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Product details
Paperback: 368 pages
Publisher: RSMeans; 2 edition (December 13, 2011)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 9781118113493
ISBN-13: 978-1118113493
ASIN: 1118113497
Product Dimensions:
8.1 x 0.7 x 10.8 inches
Shipping Weight: 2.1 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.2 out of 5 stars
99 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#19,990 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
This is a pretty good book, but lacks simple details. The author assumes you are already a framer, or at least that you have a good bit of knowledge on the craft. For instance, there isn't any instruction on fabricating the corners for walls properly. This would be necessary in order to be able to hang the drywall. He tells you how to lay out the tool storage in a framing van. Really? People can't figure that out on their own? He talks about "crowning" studs. but stops there. Nowhere does he mention how to do this. If you are handy with tools but need to know how to frame up a simple structure, I'd get the Ortho book instead. It's more geared toward the non-professional, once-in-a-while framer like me.
While this is a solid book, I would not call it a "complete" book of framing. It basically covers the principles of building a new house from the perspective of someone working on or leading a professional construction team. For the average person who is perhaps looking to do a remodel or some retrofit work, this book doesn't cover many scenarios. There is some very specific stuff like how to pack up your truck and organize a construction site which will be of use to only a limited audience, but nothing, for example, on framing an interior wall in an existing structure. I thought it would cover more scenarios so as a result was a bit disappointed.
I do not believe This is the book for a DIY-er or even someone just beginning to learn the trade. In essence, the author does a fine job of laying out all the "whats" of framing but rarely talks about the "whys" of framing. The trouble for me begins on the first couple of pages -- there's maybe half a page given to explaining a load-bearing wall, mostly just a diagram, a couple of sentences to go along with it "and that's it. I still have no idea how I would identify a load bearing wall and be able to explain WHY it's a load-bearing wall. It gets better ... later in the first chapter there's two pages full of pictures of common framer's tools, but absolutely no discussion on what to look for when selecting your own tools. Do we really need a picture of a measuring tape? Or an extension cord? If the picture of a tool belt had not been included, I'd be framing right now wearing a purple fanny-pack.There's also a section on deciphering lumber panels on page 12 of the second edition. All the author does here is label each part of the lumber panel and move on to the next topic. For example, it would have been nice to have a discussion on the the moisture content (S-GRN, S-DRY, MC-15) as it relates to new construction or remodeling work, when to use which moisture content, etc. But I guess I'm supposed to already know this.I gave it three stars because my viewpoint is only one valid viewpoint; others, probably seasoned framers, may actually find the content in this book helpful. As for the DIY-er who wants to learn the whys and be able to reason about framing construction, this book falls dreadfully short.If only Rex Cauldwell, the author of "Wiring a House" were a framer and had written this book ... this book is better off as a encyclopedia for framing contractors, as it contains 100+ pages on how to run a framing crew.I'll update my review with a suitable recommendation for a beginner DIY framing book once I have found one.
Great book, very knowledgeable. I needed to sharpen up on my framing and code standards, this was perfect. If I was reading this from a completely new to carpentry perspective, I think I could easily grasp the concept and put it into action from this book.
This is a guide on how to frame, nothing on how to design a framing project. Literally how to cut, plumb, and nail wood. The content could easily be reduced to a small, 50 page pamphlet, instead it has giant margins, giant pictures, unnecessary fluff, and huge blank spaces at the ends of chapters. Useless to anyone but a novice framer with a full set of blueprints, don't pay more than 3-5$.
Another really good book for beginners on framing. It helps them SEE all the parts and shows very helpful diagrams and explanations. It may seem too "oversimplified" for the master-carpenter, who has been framing for 30 years, but I think this is a great book for someone with no experience. Also good to get to help teach apprentice carpenters.
About half way through. Referenced a lot of things this ameture didnt know. The book puts on terms that I can understand.
I don't work in construction. I am an educator. I am quite handy and do a lot of small improvement projects at home myself. I am building a shed and while I am self-taught in basic framing techniques, I decided to further educate myself on the subject to avoid any costly mistakes. When I first started reading this book, it occurred to me that I was learning pretty much nothing new. Most chapters seemed written by Captain Obvious (like "put one board on the top of another, hold the nail to the top board, pound with the hammer until the nail sinks; now your boards are fastened"---this is an exaggeration, but really, a lot of stuff reads like this). There are some useful practical advises, but overall I was not impressed. Besides, at least 100 pages are dedicated to the management of the framing crew, safety of the crew and other information not quite relevant the do-it-yoursefer. The book might be useful for someone who wants to learn the trade from scratch without having any previous knowledge, though.I also ordered the older edition of House Framing by John D. Wagner. The Wagner's book is hands down more useful for a person like me. It is more concise and and in most parts skips things that are obvious for any do-it-yourselfer. It has more practical advises and I like the figures better than in Scott Simpson's book.
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